Acne: Symptoms, Causes and Solutions

19/08/2024

Problématiques cutanées

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Camille A.

This is undoubtedly the most feared skin condition and also the number one reason for dermatological consultation. More or less pronounced depending on its severity, it is inevitably visible. Acne affects more than 85% of 12-24 year olds¹ , and also affects adult women and men. From lesions on the skin to painful sensations, its manifestations vary and can really affect your daily well-being.

In this article, we decipher the characteristics of acne-prone skin: its causes, its symptoms, the severity grades of acne, its impact on quality of life, but above all, the right actions to help you take care of daily for your skin, and feel better about yourself.

1. What is acne?

Definition of Acne

Acne is a skin condition characterized by inflammation of the oil glands and hair follicles. It is easily identified by the presence of visible pimples and comedones. Acne is generally associated with oily skin with shine.

Acne can take several forms:

Acne vulgaris : this form is the most common . This is the one observed during adolescence , with the appearance of blackheads , whiteheads and pimples .
Cystic acne : this is a severe form of acne causing painful cysts under the skin.
Acne conglobata : rare and severe , this type of acne mainly affects men and is characterized by subcutaneous lumps (nodules) under the skin.

Who is affected by acne?

If acne mainly appears during adolescence , it can also appear later, in adulthood . Around 85% of 12-24 year olds have acne, mostly in mild and moderate forms .

But acne can persist, or even reappear in adulthood, affecting around 8% of adults between 25 and 34 years old¹ .
It also happens that acne breakouts appear in adult women , around the age of 40² . Around 5% of women over 40 are affected by acne.

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The impact of acne on quality of life

Depending on its severity and the importance of its symptoms, acne can significantly impact quality of life³ . People with acne-prone skin report a psychological impact leading to a drop in self-esteem (67% among adolescents compared to 45% among adolescents⁴), a deterioration of their body image, with the consequences of difficulties in their social lives and professionals.
For 25% of students, acne is a major problem⁴. Among adults, approximately 28.12% report feeling frustrated or embarrassed by acne⁵.

In some cases, acne may be associated with symptoms of depression and anxiety, as well as a decreased ability to concentrate on work or study.

2. Visible signs of acne

If you have acne-prone skin, then you have certainly identified certain characteristic signs of acne such as:

Blackheads (open comedones): very common, blackheads form at pores clogged by a mixture of excess sebum produced by the sebaceous glands, and the accumulation of dead skin cells . As it oxidizes with the surrounding air, this mixture turns black.

Whiteheads (closed comedones): whiteheads form like blackheads, under the effect of excess sebum and dead cells , but the pores are not open to the open air. They are closed, forming a white dot on the surface of the skin.

Papules : which appear in the form of small red subcutaneous bumps .

Pustules : these are papules which have evolved with the formation of pus , a sign of a bacterial infection. In appearance, they are small red bumps with a white or yellow top that can be painful.

Nodules : these inflammatory lesions are deeper than pustules. Here, inflammation is greater, and bacteria and sebum spread more widely in the skin. The nodules are usually painful and can lead to persistent scarring .

Cysts : severe and painful , cysts are nodules containing pus, revealing a large red bump on the surface. Significant scarring may result from their complication.

Other signs accompanying acne

Redness : it is caused by the presence of chronic inflammation.
Hypersensitivity and painful sensation : When touched, the skin may feel painful. Again, inflammation is the cause.
Post-acne scars : this is undoubtedly the most feared sign. After acne breakouts, marks, acne scars , can appear and become permanent due to the acne lesions. These scars can also take on a brown color over time, do not hesitate to turn to our MELA range if you are prone to these so-called “post-inflammatory” hyperpigmentations.

3. Factors causing acne

Studies on acne-prone skin show that while acne is essentially of biological origin, certain lifestyle factors can accentuate the signs.

Biological causes of acne

Acne results from the combination of 4 biological phenomena⁶:

Excessive sebum production : also called hyperseborrhea, excess sebum production is a major cause of acne.
Obstruction of the pilosebaceous follicle : an accumulation of dead cells (also called hyperkeratinization) clogs the pores and promotes the formation of comedones .
The proliferation of the bacteria Cutibacterium acnes : formerly called Propionibacterium acnes, this bacteria is mainly found in areas of the skin rich in sebum . In excess, it creates dysbiosis within the microbiome, an imbalance that promotes inflammation of the sebaceous glands . Recent discoveries have shown that the excess of one type of this bacteria in particular, the IA1 phylotype, is associated with greater severity of acne .
The triggering of an inflammatory response : acne is accompanied by inflammation triggered by the skin's immune system under the effect of excess sebum and the bacteria Cutibacterium acnes.

Different hormonal fluctuations throughout life contribute to accentuating these phenomena, particularly during puberty , menstruation or pregnancy .

Exogenous causes of acne

Our lifestyle and our environment can encourage the appearance of acne⁷.

Diet : Studies show that dairy products and foods with high glycemic indexes (i.e. foods high in sugar) can make acne worse. By stimulating insulin production, these foods activate sebum production and the inflammatory response.
Chronic stress : Stress causes hormonal imbalances such as spikes in cortisol , the stress hormone, which directly stimulates the activity of the sebaceous glands . Studies show greater acne breakouts during periods of significant stress.
The use of so-called “comedogenic” cosmetics : that is to say, products that clog the pores of the skin, such as makeup products. By blocking pores, they promote the formation of comedones .
Taking certain medications : steroids or medications containing hormones (contraceptives) can trigger acne breakouts.
The sun and UV rays : if you suffer from acne, you have undoubtedly noticed that in summer, the signs disappear, but only to reappear at the end of summer. Indeed, if the sun reduces acne marks , it nevertheless causes the well-known “rebound effect” with an increase in acne signs when exposure stops.

4. Acne severity grades

Acne can take different forms, more or less severe, combining more or less visible and painful manifestations⁸.

Mild acne

It is characterized by the presence of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads). A few papules and pustules may be present. In this form, acne is rather localized , without significant inflammatory manifestation, rarely causing residual scars .
Moderate acne

The skin has more papules and pustules . Its inflammatory response is more significant, which can promote the presence of nodules . In case of excessive manipulation of the visible signs, it is common for post-acne scars to appear.
Severe acne

The nodules and cysts are numerous, the subcutaneous inflammation is significant, with painful sensations . This form of acne usually spreads over large areas on the face, back and chest. The scars can be numerous and become permanent.

Identifying the severity grade of acne then allows us to determine the appropriate treatment and care procedures.

5. How to take care of your acne-prone skin

At the first signs of acne (pimples, redness, painful sensation, feeling of nodules and cysts under the fingers), it is recommended to consult a dermatologist . He will thus be able to identify the severity grade and define, with you, the necessary care , and if necessary, topical and/or oral dermatological treatments .

To take care of your acne-prone skin, it is essential to follow a good hygiene and skincare routine .

The best care for acne-prone skin

Start with a gentle cleansing of the skin morning and evening. To do this, choose cleansing products designed for oily, acne-prone skin . They will eliminate excess sebum and impurities without damaging the skin.

For your skincare routine, there are many cosmetic treatments designed for acne-prone skin. So opt for treatments that are non-comedogenic , and formulated with ingredients that meet the needs of acne-prone skin.

To help you find the right products, here are some criteria to prioritize:

Keratolytic active ingredients to eliminate dead cells accumulated on the surface of the skin such as succinic acid .
Ingredients that regulate sebum production such as zinc or achiote extract.
Ingredients rebalancing the microbiome whose imbalance can be the cause of imperfections, such as lysine dendrimer.
Soothing ingredients to calm inflammation, like niacinamide.
Powders absorb excess sebum which have an immediate mattifying effect, such as white and green clays, silica or compositions based on marine algae.
Ingredients with astringent action that tighten pores to reduce their visibility, such as red clover.
Surfactants and gentle cleansing agents .
“Non-comedogenic” formulas , that is to say which do not clog the pores of the skin.
Formulas with light textures to let your skin breathe.

Dermatological treatments for acne-prone skin

Proper management of acne requires the advice of a professional such as a dermatologist. Once a diagnosis of the severity grade has been established, he will be able to prescribe the treatment best suited to your acne. Among the available options there are⁶:

Topical treatments : these aim to reduce inflammation, reduce sebum production and prevent clogged pores. In this type of treatment, we find different active ingredients commonly used to treat acne and having proven their effectiveness such as retinoids , benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid .
Oral treatments : different approaches can act on acne. Oral antibiotic treatments target the C. acnes bacteria and soothe inflammation. Hormonal contraceptives help regulate hormonal fluctuations. Or there is isotretinoin for cases of severe and refractory acne.

Tips to prevent your acne

On a daily basis, certain good practices can improve the symptoms of acne.

Avoid handling acne lesions : there is nothing worse than wanting to poke or touch pimples. This is guaranteed to promote infections and acne scars.
Avoid excessive sun exposure .
During exposure, apply sun protection : this helps reduce the risk of the formation of acne scars with hyperpigmentation favored by the UV and inflammation combo.
Adopt a balanced diet : by limiting foods that promote acne breakouts such as dairy products and foods with a high glycemic index . Favor seasonal fruits and vegetables, moderate sugar, and drink throughout the day.

TOPICREM formulas have all been designed with the aim of providing protective hydration and preserving the skin barrier of sensitive skin for the whole family.

To do this, the laboratory relies on its expertise derived from pharmaceutical excellence:
Selection of high tolerance ingredients with proven effectiveness,
Development of clinically tested formulas on sensitive skin,
Effectiveness proven by science and approved by consumers.

Through the comfort and emotional well-being they provide, our treatments help you feel confident with your skin and with yourself, to better reveal yourself to others, and thus to fully enjoy every moment of life. .

Bibliographic references:

¹Burris, J., Rietkerk, W., & Woolf, K. (2013). Acne: the role of medical nutrition therapy. Journal of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, 113 3, 416-30. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jand.2012.11.016.
²Dawson, A., & Dellavalle, R. (2013). Acne vulgaris. BMJ: British Medical Journal, 346. https://doi.org/10.1136/bmj.f2634.
³Tanghetti, E., Kawata, A., Daniels, S., Yeomans, K., Burk, C., & Callender, V. (2014). Understanding the burden of adult female acne. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 7 2, 22-30.
⁴Tayel, K., Attia, M., Agamia, N. et al. Acne vulgaris: prevalence, severity, and impact on quality of life and self-esteem among Egyptian adolescents. J. Egypt. Audience. Health. Assoc. 95, 30 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1186/s42506-020-00056-9
⁵Nandy P, Shrivastava T (January 22, 2024) Exploring the Multifaceted Impact of Acne on Quality of Life and Well-Being. Cureus 16(1): e52727. doi:10.7759/cureus.52727
⁶Nogita, T., Nomura, Y., & Kurokawa, I. (2021). Postinflammatory Papule: An Attempt New Designation for Acne Vulgaris. Dermatology and Therapy, 11, 1867 - 1869. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-021-00629-2.
⁷Williams HC, Dellavalle RP, Garner S. Acne vulgaris. Lancet. 2012 Jan 28;379(9813):361-72. doi: 10.1016/S0140-6736(11)60321-8. Epub 2011 Aug 29. Erratum in: Lancet. 2012 Jan 28;379(9813):314. PMID: 21880356.
⁸Tan, J., Frey, M., Knezevic, S., Poulin, Y., Lynde, C., Gulliver, W., Gupta, A., Sebaldt, R., Thomas, D., & Sapra, S. (2015). The Relationship Between Dermatologist- and Patient-Reported Acne Severity Measures and Treatment Recommendations. Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 19, 464 - 469. https://doi.org/10.1177/1203475415576464.