Composition cosmétique : apprenez à décoder vos produits de beauté

30/01/2025

Astuces & routines beauté

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Arcadie B.

Have you ever felt lost when looking at the list of ingredients in your skincare products? Don't panic! We'll help you understand what's hidden in your cosmetic products to make the best choices for your skin.

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How to choose the right products according to the areas of the body?

Our skin does not have the same needs everywhere on our body. The face requires special attention because its skin is thinner and more sensitive than that of the rest of the body. The lips , often prone to dryness , require care rich in moisturizing and protective agents .

For the body , choose nourishing treatments that adapt to your seasonal needs. As for hair, it requires specific formulas according to its nature to preserve shine and health.

The composition of a cosmetic product

The different families of ingredients

Cosmetic products are formulated from different families of ingredients that play specific roles to ensure their effectiveness , stability and safety . Here are the main families of ingredients found in a cosmetic product:

Water : an essential ingredient in cosmetics, it is used to dissolve or dilute other ingredients to ensure their proper formulation and stability. It also makes it easier to apply the product to the skin.

Active ingredients : these are the ingredients that provide the main benefits to the product, depending on its objectives (anti-aging, hydration, soothing, etc.). They target specific needs of the skin or hair. Ex: hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, zinc, vitamin C, ...

Moisturizing and emollient agents : These ingredients help to maintain skin moisture , nourish it and give it a soft feeling. They can also form a protective film to prevent dehydration. Ex: glycerin, urea, beeswax, shea butter, vegetable oils

Stabilizing and gelling agents : they are used to give a pleasant texture to cosmetic products and to maintain the stability of the formula. They help to thicken, gel or stabilize emulsions, so that the consistency of the product is homogeneous and pleasant to apply. Ex: Xanthan gum

Surfactants : they help to clean the skin or hair by removing impurities and sebum. They are also responsible for the formation of foam in shower gels, shampoos or cleansers. Ex: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Lauryl Glucoside, ..

Preservatives : they prevent microbial contamination and ensure the safety of the product throughout its shelf life. Ex: Potassium sorbate

The origin of the ingredients

Cosmetic ingredients can come from various origins, depending on the manufacturing methods , the source of supply and the production processes. Here are the main categories of possible origins:

Plant-based : Plant-based ingredients are extracted from plants, flowers, seeds, fruits, roots or barks. These ingredients are often rich in antioxidants, vitamins and essential fatty acids that are beneficial for the skin. Examples: vegetable oils (flax, camelina, sweet almond), vegetable butters (shea, cocoa), plant extracts (aloe vera, annatto)

Mineral origin : Ingredients of mineral origin come from natural sources from the Earth , such as rocks, minerals or metals. Examples: clays (kaolin, green clay), minerals (silica), metal oxides (zinc oxide)

Synthetic origin : Synthetic ingredients are produced by chemical processes in laboratories , often to reproduce natural components on an industrial scale or to obtain specific properties. Ex: urea, niacinamide

Biotechnological origin : ingredients of biotechnological origin are obtained from microorganisms, bacteria or algae , often via fermentation or cell culture processes. Ex: hyaluronic acid, peptides, certain algae extracts

The star ingredients of Topicrem formulas

At Topicrem, we have chosen to use active ingredients scientifically recognized for their effectiveness and excellent skin tolerance. Our expertise in dermocosmetics allows us to create formulas adapted to the most sensitive skin.

Glycerin , a powerful moisturizer that helps maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is essential for deeply hydrating dry and dehydrated skin.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is mainly used for its anti-blemish action . It is ideal for combination to oily skin, prone to imperfections. It can be found, for example, in our AC Control anti-blemish skincare range .
Hyaluronic acid , known for its moisturizing and plumping properties . It helps reduce wrinkles and restore elasticity to the skin.
Vitamin C , an antioxidant that brightens the complexion and protects the skin from damage caused by the sun's rays.
Shea butter , nourishing and protective , it repairs dry skin and protects the skin barrier.
Zinc gluconate with purifying properties, ideal for acne-prone skin.
Urea which promotes deep hydration of the skin and improves its softness.

How to read a cosmetic label?

In Europe, cosmetics follow strict regulations that guarantee our safety. On each product, you will find essential information: the list of ingredients (INCI), the duration of use after opening, the batch number and the capacity. The ingredients are always listed from the most concentrated to the least concentrated , which allows you to easily identify the majority components.

INCI language explained simply

INCI is like a universal language in the world of cosmetics. Plants are listed in Latin , while synthetic ingredients are in English . For example, when a cosmetic product says "Glycerin", it is simply glycerin. "Butyrospermum Parkii Butter" is none other than the well-known shea butter, and "Sodium Hyaluronate" is the INCI name for hyaluronic acid.

Recognizing a good formula

Recognizing a good cosmetic formula involves knowing how to identify certain key criteria that ensure its effectiveness, safety and compatibility with your skin . Here are the elements to check to evaluate a cosmetic formula:

Presence of effective active ingredients adapted to your needs: a good formula must contain recognized dermatological active ingredients . For example, if you have dehydrated skin, the formula must contain ingredients such as glycerin, urea or vegetable oils . Make sure that the active ingredients are present in sufficient concentration in the formula to be truly effective (generally, the most concentrated ingredients are listed first).
No ingredient overload : A good formula should not be too complex or contain an excessive list of ingredients. If the product contains a long list of ingredients, it may contain unnecessary agents that do nothing to improve the effectiveness of the treatment and will overload your skin.
Formulate for your skin type: A good formula is designed to meet the specific needs of your skin. Dry, combination, oily skin requires ingredients that are tailored to their needs.
If your skin is sensitive, choose products specifically designed for sensitive skin to avoid adverse reactions. At Topicrem all our products are tested on sensitive skin .
Formulas tested under dermatological control which ensure good product tolerance.
Pleasant texture and easy to apply : A good formula should also be pleasant to use. The texture of the product should match your preferences and be easy to apply.

Focus on sensitive skin

Sensitive skin requires special attention, as it reacts more easily to external aggressions and cosmetic products.

At Topicrem, we know how important it is to choose the right active ingredients for these delicate skins .

Which active ingredients should you favor when you have sensitive skin?

Sensitive skin requires specific dermocosmetic formulations that prioritize soothing active ingredients that strengthen the skin barrier. We particularly recommend:

Glycerin for its gentle moisturizing action
Niacinamide for its soothing and anti-blemish properties
Allantoin for its restorative effect
Panthenol for its soothing action

What ingredients should you avoid when you have sensitive skin?

For sensitive skin, it is essential to avoid certain ingredients that could cause adverse reactions.

High concentrations of synthetic fragrances should also be avoided, as they are a common source of skin reactions. This is why we prefer fragrance-free formulas or those that are naturally scented thanks to the ingredients they contain.

Some concentrated exfoliants can be too harsh for sensitive skin. If you want to exfoliate your skin, opt for gentle formulas that are specifically designed for sensitive skin.

Finally, dehydrating alcohols should be avoided because they can dry out the skin and increase its sensitivity. They are generally found in the INCI lists under the names “Alcohol Denat.”, “Ethanol” or “Isopropyl Alcohol”.

However, some fatty alcohols can be beneficial because they help the active ingredients penetrate while respecting the skin's balance. These ingredients are generally indicated in the INCI lists of dermocosmetic products as follows: “Cetearyl Alcohol”, “Cetyl Alcohol” or “Stearyl Alcohol”.

Cosmetic Ingredients: Apps to Guide You

Cosmetic product scanning apps , which promise to instantly analyze the composition of a product via a simple scan of the barcode or label , should be used with caution.

While these apps can provide a quick assessment of ingredients, and provide plenty of explanations, they are not always 100% reliable . Many of them simplify the information, giving overall scores without taking into account the exact concentrations of ingredients or the contexts of use. Some apps may also rely on limited databases that are not always scientifically acceptable. It is therefore essential to cross-reference the information obtained with reliable sources and cosmetic experts to avoid hasty judgments or recommendations that are not adapted to your specific needs.

Understanding the composition of your cosmetics is no longer an impossible mission. At Topicrem, we favor simple and effective formulations for our dermocosmetic products, with recognized and well-tolerated active ingredients .