Everything about silicones in cosmetics

16/07/2026

Comprendre ma peau

Share the article:

Camille A.

Silicones are ingredients used in cosmetic products. Present in face care, hair products, makeup, and some sunscreens, they generate both interest and controversy.

Known for their exceptional sensory properties, silicones are now criticized for their environmental impact. Between misconceptions and scientific realities, it is not always easy to understand their role, nor the reasons for their use by formulators or their regulatory restrictions.

In this article, you will find everything you need to understand the use of silicones in cosmetics, their characteristics, their benefits, and the associated environmental issues. And, we will reveal how we managed to formulate our new Matte Finish Mousse Cream SPF50 SUN PROTECT combining its high sun protection with an exceptional blur effect, without silicones!

What exactly are silicones?

Silicones, a family of ingredients with sensory properties

Silicones are a vast family of synthetic compounds used in many industrial sectors, including the medical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic fields.

From a chemical perspective, they are mainly composed of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms forming a particularly stable structure. There is a wide variety of silicones in the form of silicone elastomers, silicone resins, or silicone oils...

Silicones owe their original properties to their architecture: great flexibility, high chemical inertness, water resistance, and a silky feel¹. These characteristics are difficult to reproduce with other raw materials.

In cosmetic products, the silicones used belong to grades specifically developed for application on the skin or hair. They are found in particular in:

Hair products: shampoos, conditioners.
Face and body care: creams, serums.
Sun protection products.
Hygiene products: shower gels, deodorants...
Makeup: "long-wear" foundations, powders.

The use of silicones in cosmetic products

Why use silicones in cosmetic formulas?

In cosmetic and dermocosmetic products, silicones are used to²:

Improve the sensoriality of formulas: better glide, easier spreading, soft and velvety touch.
Reduce the unpleasant sensations of stickiness or greasiness of certain textures.
Promote skin comfort with the formation of a flexible film.
Preserve hydration and limit water loss.
Protect the skin barrier: particularly in care products for dry or sensitive skin.
Optimize the performance of sunscreen products: better dispersion of UV filters and more homogeneous application.
Improve the user experience and skin finish: light textures, better glide, and a soft, silky, matte finish...

Silicones generally create a velvet touch or a "peach skin effect", highly prized in facial care and makeup.
And contrary to some misconceptions, the film created by silicones on the skin's surface is not occlusive. Without suffocating the skin, it allows for the maintenance of natural exchanges between the skin and the ambient air¹.

Finally, silicones are recognized as chemically inert, which gives them excellent skin tolerance. They are also considered non-irritating, non-allergenic, and non-carcinogenic¹.

How to identify silicones in an INCI list?

Silicones can be identified in the INCI list of cosmetic product ingredients. Their names frequently end with the suffixes -cone, -conol, -siloxane, or -silsesquioxane. Examples include dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and polymethylsilsesquioxane.

Some cyclic silicones are also designated by the letter D followed by a number, such as D4 (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), D5 (cyclopentasiloxane), or D6 (cyclohexasiloxane). The "D" refers to their cyclic chemical structure (cyclodimethylsiloxane), while the number indicates the number of silicon-oxygen units that make up the molecular ring. Thus, D4 has four units, D5 has five, and D6 has six.

Regulation and Environmental Impact of Silicones in Cosmetics

Regulation of silicones

Like all cosmetic ingredients, silicones are subject to the framework of European Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, one of the strictest cosmetic regulations in the world.
Although silicones are considered safe for cosmetic use due to their high chemical inertness, they are subject to regular study observations.

Which silicones are affected by the restrictions?

Following research, the cosmetic use of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), cyclopentasiloxane (D5), and cyclohexasiloxane (D6) silicones is now more regulated³:

Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4): suspected of being an endocrine disruptor, it has been banned in cosmetic products (since January 1, 2022).
Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and cyclohexasiloxane (D6): they can no longer be used "as such a substance, as constituents of other substances, or in mixtures, at a concentration equal to or greater than 0.1% by weight of the substance concerned."

Current regulatory concerns mainly involve these volatile cyclic silicones. PDMS (dimethicone), like other non-volatile silicones, is not subject to the same usage restrictions due to its lower environmental impact.

The environmental impact of silicones

Depending on their chemical structure, silicones do not behave the same way in the environment after use.
Silicones used in rinse-off products (shampoos or certain hair products) are eliminated in wastewater and can end up in the environment.

Scientific studies reveal the bioaccumulation potential of silicone derivatives in certain ecosystems. In particular, D4 (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), D5 (cyclopentasiloxane), and D6 (cyclohexasiloxane) have attracted the attention of regulatory authorities due to:

Their persistence in the environment, i.e., their slow degradation after being released into natural environments.
Their bioaccumulation potential, i.e., their ability to gradually accumulate in certain living organisms.

As such, silicones are often considered very difficult to biodegrade, or even non-biodegradable.

Why develop silicone-free alternatives?

Given these challenges, the cosmetic industry is evolving its use of silicones. Many brands are working to reduce the use of certain cyclic silicones, develop alternatives, or select other ingredients that offer a better compromise between sensory performance and environmental impact.
And it is to meet these requirements for effective, sensory, and more sustainable formulas that the TOPICREM laboratory has developed its brand-new sun care formula with a blur effect, silicone-free.

TOPICREM's new silicone-free SPF50 sunscreen

A blurring effect with a velvety touch, silicone-free

Finding a facial sunscreen that you genuinely want to apply every day isn't always easy. Many people, especially those with combination to oily skin, dread thick textures, shininess, or the feeling of "suffocated" skin.

It was precisely to meet these expectations that we developed the SUN PROTECT SPF50 Matt Finish Mousse Cream. This facial sun care product combines high UVA/UVB protection with an airy and comfortable texture, designed for sensitive skin looking for both effectiveness, pleasure of use, and a matte finish, all without silicones!

A light mousse texture thanks to silica

To avoid silicones while offering comparable sensoriality, the TOPICREM laboratory teams leveraged all their expertise by combining a gelling agent (SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH) and 2 silica powders (SILICA). This combination gives the cream a light and comfortable mousse texture, providing an immediate blurring effect.

A perfecting effect validated by consumers

And the volunteers who tested it validate the perfecting effect of the SUN PROTECT SPF50 Matt Finish Mousse Cream:

97% (A) declare that their skin is instantly mattified.
94% (A) find that the cream smooths skin texture.
91% (A) notice that imperfections are visually blurred.
93% (A) believe that the cream protects the skin without suffocating it.

SUN PROTECT Crème mousse, haute protection solaire, sans silicone

Sun protection, skin care, and pleasant application

Protecting your skin from the sun is essential to limit the formation of free radicals and prevent skin photoaging.
To achieve this, the SPF50 SUN PROTECT Matt Finish Mousse Cream combines several ingredients:

Organic sun filters providing high SPF50 UVA and UVB protection.
An echinacea extract, a plant-based active ingredient with anti-aging, antioxidant, and soothing properties.
Glycerin, known for its moisturizing benefits.

And because sun protection is only truly effective if applied regularly, we paid special attention to sensoriality with a light texture, a matte finish, and no white marks.
Sensory qualities confirmed during our evaluation tests:

100%(A) experience the application of this cream as a moment of well-being and say they enjoy applying their sun protection.
95%(A) feel more confident thanks to the cream's mattifying action.
100%(A) feel at ease knowing their skin is well protected

Silicones have largely contributed to the evolution of modern cosmetic textures thanks to their high sensoriality. While some families of silicones are particularly scrutinized from an environmental perspective, effective silicone-free alternatives are possible.

With our Matte Finish Mousse Cream SPF50, we are moving towards a dermo-cosmetic that combines high sun protection, blur effect, skin care, and sustainability, to offer sensitive skin effectiveness, comfort, and daily pleasure, all without silicones.

TOPICREM, expert in sensitive skin

Understanding the mechanisms of inflammation helps to better identify the skin's needs and adopt more appropriate daily habits. A gentle, moisturizing, and protective routine, combined with skincare products that respect the skin barrier, helps to maintain skin comfort and limit factors that can perpetuate inflammation.

At TOPICREM, expertise in sensitive and fragile skin guides the development of our skincare products. This commitment at the heart of Research & Development allows us to constantly identify and select active ingredients that are effectively soothing for skin inflammation, capable of sustainably improving patients' daily well-being.

Formulas developed for sensitive skin

TOPICREM formulas have all been designed to provide protective hydration and preserve the skin barrier of sensitive skin for the whole family.

To achieve this, the laboratory relies on its expertise derived from pharmaceutical excellence:

Selection of high-tolerance ingredients with proven efficacy,
Development of formulas clinically tested on sensitive skin,
Efficacy demonstrated by science and approved by consumers.

Through the comfort and emotional well-being they provide, our skincare products help you feel confident in your skin and with yourself, allowing you to fully enjoy every moment of life.

FAQ about silicones in cosmetics

Are silicones in cosmetics bad for your skin?

No, the silicones used in cosmetics are generally well-tolerated by the skin. They are appreciated for their chemical inertness, soft feel, and ability to improve application comfort. The main concerns primarily relate to certain cyclic silicones, which are more closely monitored for their environmental impact.

How to recognize a silicone in an INCI list?

Silicones are often recognizable in an INCI list by certain suffixes like -cone, -conol, -siloxane, or -silsesquioxane. For example, ingredients like dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, or polymethylsilsesquioxane may be found.

Why are silicones used in cosmetics?

Silicones are used to improve the sensory qualities of formulas. They facilitate application, provide a soft or velvety feel, reduce greasy or sticky sensations, and contribute to a smoother finish. They are found in face care, hair products, makeup, and sunscreens.

What is the environmental impact of silicones?

Some silicones, particularly cyclic silicones such as D4, D5, and D6, are monitored for their environmental persistence and potential for bioaccumulation. They can be released into wastewater, especially via rinse-off products. This is why silicone-free alternatives are being developed.

Are there effective silicone-free sunscreens?

Yes, it is possible to formulate an effective and pleasant sun care product without silicones. TOPICREM SUN PROTECT SPF50 Mattifying Mousse Cream combines high UVA/UVB protection, a light mousse texture, a mattifying finish, and an immediate blurring effect thanks to a combination of gelling agent and silica powders.

(A)% satisfaction - Clinical study under dermatological and ophthalmological control on 33 subjects after 28 days

References:
¹Bains P, Kaur S. Silicone in Dermatology: An Update. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2023 Jan-Mar;16(1):14-20. doi: 10.4103/JCAS.JCAS_204_22. Epub 2023 Apr 28. PMID: 37383974; PMCID: PMC10298615.
²JL. Garaud. 50 years of cosmetic innovation. L’actualité chimique - October-November 2008 - n° 323-324. https://new.societechimiquedefrance.fr/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/2008-323-324-oct-nov-p.29-Garaud.pdf
³Premium Beauty News: https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/fr/ue-nouvelles-restrictions-pour-les,23928#:~:text=Le%20nouveau%20règlement%20prévoit%20qu,en%20poids%20de%20la%20substance